(NB 9800 1796) Tidal North facing
The biggest and baddest of the Reiff cliffs. Doesn’t get a lot of sun, so needs a fresh day to be dry. For routes on the left side of the cliff scramble down north-east of the cliff to a slanting shelf and return under the poised block (mid-tide). For Spaced Our Rockers head for the large bay to the west and descend grassy slopes at its back. Head out over boulders (lowish tide required) then some exposed soloing leads round the corner to a big roofed recess.
Slime Time 30m E3 6a*
Not on the topo, this is the always wet corner line at the left end of the cliff. Needs a drought or a positive attitude to damp.
1 Spaced out Rockers on the Road to Oblivion 65m E4 ****
A stunning right to left diagonal line across the big undercut wall, giving the longest and best route on the peninsula. Originally climbed in four pitches and graded E2. Gain the big roofed recess as described in the approach.
1. 20m 5c Traverse horizontally left until below the left end of a ledge system. Make hard moves up to gain the ledge, and belay at the right end.
2. 45m 5c Go to the left end of the ledge and up to a prominent handrail, and follow this until it is possible to gain a higher handrail, which cuts through an obvious niche to finish in the corner. A large rack of Cams (mainly size 1.5 to 3) will be found more than useful.
2 Rockers - The Prequel 25m E4 5c*
An alternative first pitch to Spaced Out Rockers. From the same start, follow Aqua Rambling up the left edge of the cave to a break, then follow this left to join Spaced Out Rockers at its belay.
Sandy Simpson following the big pitch of Spaced Out Rockers pic Paul Allen
3 Headlong 35m E4 5c ***
Excellent sustained climbing, heading for the prominent hanging groove high up and left centre. Start 10m right of the blunt slabby arete below the right end of the big roof. Climb up to a good horizontal break and traverse left to a small ledge below a flake. Follow this, then slightly right up the shallow ramp to an apparent impasse. Climb directly up the steep wall on hidden holds to the break of Spaced out Rockers and traverse left to a rest in the base of the final groove. Finish more easily up the groove.
Headlong pic Neil Morrison
4 Misha 35m E6 6b***
The central line up the wall is basically a direct version of Headlong. Start 6m right of the arête, directly beneath an obvious thin diagonal hanging crack. Weave up first left then rightwards along breaks to pull back left and move up to the thin crack. Climb this leading to undercut flakes and follow these to gain the break on Headlong. Make hard moves up the wall above (crux) to better holds and a good break. Move out right along this and pull up onto a ledge in the recess (junction with Culach). Move out left and continue more easily past large spike to finish. Very sustained, but well-protected, take lots of cams.
5 Misha Direct 35m E6/7 6b**
Follow Misha to the top of the ‘vague’ crack where it rejoins Headlong. Move right and up to a shallow in-cut break near a round pocket (poor F2 and RP in the break). From a good in-cut above, make a big move to a shallow break (Rock 4) then up to the Spaced Out Rockers break. Move slightly left and climb a hard thin seam using a shallow finger pocket. Finish direct
6 Culach 30m E5 6a ***
Spectacular climbing up the hanging flake system in the centre of the cliff. Start below the flake system and climb to protection in the first break. Follow the groove on good holds up the edge to a rest below the break of Spaced out Rockers. Climb direct to good ledges and then a large ledge near the top. Continue direct to the final break and finish slightly left past an undercut flake.
Wilson Moir on Cullach pic Neil Morrison
7 Shortcut to Oblivion 35m E4 6a ***
Another great route that weaves its way through some unlikely ground. Start 5m right of Culach and just left of the sea cave. Climb up and make committing moves to gain a shallow guano splattered groove and follow this to a junction with Spaced out Rockers. Continue up Spaced out Rockers to its belay ledge, then carry on more or less directly to a large roof, which is passed on its left via keyed-in blocks to gain a ledge. Steep bulges above lead to another roof. Move left and make a final long reach for the top.
8 Sgeoldair 30m E5/6 6b**
Start as for Spaced Out Rockers and follow this left for 5m, then go up the left side of a black streak to gain a small hanging corner and a good break. Move left then run it out up the crimpy wall to another good break. Go left up through a break in the overhangs (often wet but on good holds) to a ledge and an easier finish.
9 Aqua Rambling 20m E5 6a***
Start as for Spaced out Rockers. Swing left onto the front face and follow the edge and crack above to gain a good break. Move left, make some thin moves and continue to another break. Go up to a roof and pullover using flat holds, step right and climb up to finish on a ledge just below the cliff top. Low in the grade with good protection where in matters.
First ascent of Aqua Rambling pic Boy in a kayak
10 Lethe Walk 20m E3/4 6a***
Start as for Spaced Out Rockers…Swing left on to the front and follow the edge (as for Aqua Rambling) and the black streak above to a break. Go right along the break until under a corner at the left side of the big roof and gain the corner by a hard move. At the top of the corner swing round right onto the front face and go up the wall above.