Local climber Murdo Jamieson has had a productive summer whilst fighting his affliction with FOMO (Fear Of Missing Out). In the spring he and Iain Small managed the first ascent of an amazing looking line on the equally stunning Carnmore crag up here in North West Scotland.
We wanted to hear more about this ascent and Murdo was happy to give us the low down.
100 Years Of Solitude E8 6c ***
Being strong minded for once, I declined a few
invites out to Pabbay and Mingulay this year.
Time marched on and the departure of these trips became closer. Due to the power of social media, I became
well aware that everyone seemed to be going out this year. Instantly my FOMO kicked in. Anyway, who would want to go to an island
that had big overhanging cliffs, sound rock, stunning lines and all that.
Thankfully my good friend Iain Small wasn't going
either. The good thing about Iain is, he
doesn't get FOMO. He just gives it. Anyway, on the Friday morning of one of the
trips I had declined, I found myself lathered in sweat, cursing and swearing as
I cycled on a bike too small for me with a big heavy rucksack on my back into
Carnmore. I was with Iain but he
appeared to be enjoying the scenery and was always ahead. Mountain biking is shit I thought. Maybe getting the boat out to the islands
would have been better. Slight FOMO
alarm bells were ringing in the distance.
It had been years since I had been to Carnmore so
I was pretty psyched to just do the classic harder routes. We arrived at the 5 star shit hole (the
barn), had a quick bite to eat, rehydrated then marched to the top of the
crag. We did the 'Orange Bow' and
'Wilderness' which were very good. After
the routes were done, it was like 9.30pm or something so I was all set to have
my dinner and a brew. Iain, wasn't. He asked me if it was cool if he rapped to
check a potential new line out. So
whilst he was doing that, I was busy trying to keep warm by doing star jumps,
push ups and generally running around trying not to fall over the edge of the
crag as a bitter wind was blowing over.
This is turning into a long story, so I'll speed
it up. Saturday morning. Iain tried his
new line, fell off a few times. Almost killed
me by knocking a foot hold off that cracked my helmet open. He retreated.
We did 'Death Wolf' which is pretty good value by the way. Not a pushover by any means. We cycled out, I was raging. Fell off my bike a few times. Even more rage. Glad to get back to the car, I was pleased to
know that I had no reason to go back any time soon. Little did I know I was going to repeat the
feat and do the exact same cycle again in a few day’s time!
By Monday morning I had recovered and my mental
scars had healed over. Already my rat
was hungry again. I was meant to be
shadowing a potential employer on Skye by doing some hillwalking on the Cuillin
Ridge the following weekend. Great I
thought. A day or two later, I realised
the weather was going to be nice again in the North West. Since cycling out, I harbored a deep psyche
to get back to Carnmore and try this new line with Iain. So after some lame excuses to this employer,
I was straight on the phone to Iain making plans to get back to Carnmore.
Same process as above. Cycled in on the Friday. Rage. This time it was damp, overcast and
midge. The forecast was for it to clear
by mid-afternoon. To be fair, it did so
I can’t complain. We lugged the stuff up
the hill and almost died in the heat and humidity. Iain rapped the line again and had a play on
a top rope. I had a chance after to rap
it and try the moves. Ah, this is pretty
hard! Instantly I felt a bit
demoralised. I didn't realise how hard
it was. Small crimps, far apart, poor
feet. Even after the crux there's
another pretty hard sequence. Hmm, have
I wasted my time? I'll never lead
that. But Iain reminded me that the crag
was in the baking sun, I was dehydrated and tired from the cycle. Anyway, after my mackerel and cous cous
dinner at our free apartment, I lay in bed running over the moves. Ach maybe its not so hard.
What a difference a day makes. Iain rapped it and top roped it cleanly first
go. I rapped it, top roped it first go
as well. Shit! Its on! Hmm, the crux is very runout with massive
fall potential, I better not think about it too much. So, Iain racked up. We got down there, I sorted the ropes. Iain set off up the wall. He arrived at the niche and invested some
time into making sure the nest of kit was solid. He gave his cue and was off. I stood up, then
suddenly the fear came over me. I have
never been so stressed belaying. He launched
up the wall making some grunts with a final power grunt to get into the big
break. Thread clipped, cams in, he only
had the upper wall to do which could easily spit you off. He dispatched it in good style then rapped it
to get the kit out and handed it over to me.
My turn.
Kit sorted, ropes flaked, I started off up. First runner in, I need a shit. FFS! So
I down climbed then found a spot in the vertical vegetation below the
belay. Right, t-shirt tucked in,
trousers rolled up, rock shoes cleaned, now I look the part. I arrived at the niche and repeated the same
process Iain went through in equalising everything. Bombproof.
Shaking out, psyching myself up.
When is the right time to go? I
don't know so I went for it. Before I knew it I was at the big break clipping
the thread. I looked down at the ropes waving between me and the last runners
in the niche. You would have gone miles
if you blew the stab into the break!
Hanging out, shaking out, I absorbed my surroundings. Lochs, sea, mountains, sun, cloud,
breeze...perfection. However, I still
have the tricky wall above. I got that
over with too and rocked onto the upper slab just below the top. What felt like HVS in the morning on a top
rope turned into what felt like E2 on the lead!
Topping out and being welcomed by A' Mhaighdean is a moment I will never
forget.
I rapped it and shook Iain's hand. We finished the day off with Fian Grooves,
or the first 2 pitches at least. I was
meant to do the top 5c pitch but somehow managed to find myself scrambling up
the top of Fionn Buttress. Oh, what
a shame. You know whats coming now, the
cycle out. But this time in the pissing
rain. I don't care, I've have just
climbed the best route I'll ever do in my life!
I started off explaining my potential FOMO about
not going to the Islands. Did I get
it? Of course not. Would I have got it if I failed? I would like to think not. Even our first weekend in there, those three
routes we did were gems. Its so rare to
get a the correct partner, weather and conditions for Carnmore. All of a sudden the Islands are now the in
place to be thanks to a UK Climbing article.
Reading the blogs, it sounded like everyone had a good time, good social
scene (50 people at one point on one island) and lots of brilliant
climbing. I’m not sure I would have
enjoyed it as much as I have done in previous years.
Murdo is supported by Mountain Boot Company and Rab.
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Murdo is supported by Mountain Boot Company and Rab.
Enjoy our blog? Give us a follow on Facebook & Twitter