Now that the midges and heat have gone, the Torridon bouldering season has kicked off. Here's a few new problems and grade changes since the guidebook came out. If you don't have the guidebook then it won't make sense, but you DO have the guidebook don't you? Boulderers probably won't care, but you might like to know that all profits from the guide get ploughed back into the local bolt fund. None of the proceeds go towards us buying ourselves a yacht in the Bahamas.
18 Slot Wall One 6A+
27A The Tight Line 6A Sitter
Start at a good low jug right of the Red Groove. Go straight up to a pair of holds, reach left and make a long reach up to slopers.
28A Sharp 6C Sitter
Start on a low hold left of Red Groove, grab a sharp little layaway and head straight up to a jug finish.
32A Drop the Pilot 6A+
A low right-to-left traverse of Happy Pilots wall. Start on jammed block and keep lowish past a triangular pinch to finish up Zig-Zag.
38 Tiger Cave 6A+
40A Spiral Lip 5 Sitter
Start sitting on the block under Hanging Arete. Follow lip leftwards spiraling round to finish on top of the boulder.
54 Spaceship Wall Right-hand 6B Sitter
The sitter adds a couple of good moves.
55 Another Pit 7A Sitter
Start crouched on the square boulder embedded in the ground, undercut the main block and make a burly couple of moves into the stand up start.
Another Pit Sitter
55A Challenging Times 6C
From Another Pit go rightwards along the crag until just past a rowan tree. There is a short wall above a spikey boulder and patioed landing. Climb the wall rightwards with a reachy move off a small right hand layaway.
55B Not So Challenging 5+ Sitter
Just right of Challenging Times go up the edge of the wall starting from an undercut layaway.
60 Potential Seven 7B
No longer a project.
The Ship Area
The Prow Boulder
86A The Ashes 5
Straight up the high slab just right of Phoenix Nights. Start from the handy boulder.
87A Found but Lost 6A+ Sitter
At the back of the Tetrahedron block is a cave. Climb the short burly roof on the Liathach side on good sloping holds and great grippy rock.
94A Super Lank Morpho Arete 7A+
The curving arête right of Super Lank Morpho Groove. Go up to undercuts then head up and right.
Super Lank Morpho Arete
110A Fifty Days of Grey 7A Sitter
The slightly overhanging left wall of the bay. Sit start on a low juggy ledge, crimp up to join and cross the diagonal crack (Bay Crack) and finish direct (easier and highball). (Richie Betts 2013)
119 Indian Winter 6B+
119A Fecal Transplant 5+ Sitter
The rounded right arete of the wall.
128A Highland Council Hooker 5 Sitter
Start in the wee cave right of Biscuits. Make a move to big holds, hand traverse right and crank up the wall right of Big Ledge.
142 Morning Afterglow 6B+ Sitter
The short slopey left to right rising rib at the very right end of the angel walls. Superb rock, some of the best in Torridon.
145A Otter Wall Arete 6A
The airy left-hand arête of Otter’s wall.
152A Dinosaur Arete 6C
Crouching start with left hand on the arete and right hand on an undercut.
153A Quickly Over 6A+ Sitter
Well worth doing. Sitting start at base of The Hook. Span right to join the original problem.
Quickly Over Sitter
156A Putting the Holes In 6B+ Sitter
A clean open wall and slab a few metres right of More E2 than V2. Start in a small niche and climb slightly right then back left through the break and slab above.
Putting the Holes In
156B Lie of the Land 6C
The shorter steeper wall right again, starting from a flat grassy platform. Start right hand undercut and left hand gaston, up to better holds and finish direct.
159 Bronwen’s Collar 6A
In the jumble of boulders under Lie of the Land is a hanging slab with a rising left-to-right diagonal break. Go straight up from the left end of the break.
160 Lonely Outlier 6A+ Sitter
A short slopey block a couple of hundred metres across the vague valley in front of the dinosaur area, close to the Liathach path. Start matched on a rail on the left side of the block, traverse right, move up to the lip and mantel over.
Up the Hill Area
15A Is that Your Arête, Helen? 4+
Below Stokes Croft to the east is a nice stand-alone pillar shaped boulder near the edge of the cliff band. Climb the South West Arête.
There's a nice new slab problem on the way up to the Essence. No name, no grade, but a video.
Holiday Home Boulder
5. Chimney Breast 6C
Three Streaks Wall Area
6. Annat Edge Bridging is actually allowed for the grade!
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