Clean Cut Crag

North Facing NC 053243  Semi-Tidal

Clean Cut Crag Photo by Richie Bertts

Clean Cut Crag is a lovely short gneiss sea-cliff, situated on the coast north of Lochinver. It's great for escaping the heat and the midges shouldn't be a problem. When you've had enough climbing head for Achmelvich beach for a swim. 

From Lochinver head north on the B 869 and after about 2 miles turn left for Achmelvich. Park near the entrance to Achmelvich Camp site and either walk through the camp site and follow the coastline southwards or head roughly westwards over the hill (slightly quicker, but rougher ground). It takes about 15mins. The crag's main features are a prominent smooth central corner, and several sharp angular grooves and arêtes.

1 Hed Kandi 8m VS 4c *
At the seaward (north) end of the easy descent shelf, there is a short wall facing the main crag, with a corner on its right. This gains and climbs the left arête.

2 Stereo Sushi 7m Severe
The short but very pleasant corner right of Hed Kandi.

3 Snappy Carrot 12m E1 5c *
At the shorter left end of the main crag is a deep hanging slot. Climb an easy lower groove to the roof and cross this with difficulty to finish up the slot, pulling out right on good holds at the top.

4 Calypso 14m E4 6a **
The fine bottomless corner left of Flawless. Bold moves in the upper half, protected adequately with RPs.

5 Flawless 16m E7 6c ***
The second arête from the left, the first being bottomless. This is Scotland’s answer to Master’s Edge and it was first ascended by the infamous Jules Lines. Climb the prominent arête, first on the left and then on the right, to a big jug and gear just above. Take a deep breath and layback the arête on it's right side with commitment and technical finesse. Staying on the left after the jug is better protected but you only get E6 for this.

You can see a clip of Richie Betts on the E6 version Here

6 Flightless 18m E3 5c **
The next arête right of Flawless. Climb the arête to a bulge. Move left and pull into a fine jamming crack which leads to an easier upper slab.

7 Faithless 15m E3 6a **
The groove line right of Flightless. Needs low tide.

8 Unnamed 8m VS 5a *
At the top right end of the cliff are two clean corners above a slabby platform half-way up the cliff. Ab to the platform and climb the left corner, which has a crack on its right wall. Just when it starts to get hard, a ledge on the right arête can be reached.