Goat Crag- New Routes

Top Deck

It's time to go high and long as multi-pitch sport climbing has arrived on the west coast. Courtesy of Lawrence Hughes the Top Deck of Goat Crag is now open. From the top of the routes it's possible to scramble to the top of the crag, but you might need a few wires and it's a long walk back to the base. Alternatively descend by abseil.

NB We're just waiting on Lawrence checking his new route name database, so check back later for some exciting and original route names. These are heady times dear reader, heady times...

1 Poster Boy 5+

20m A recent addition that gives great varied climbing. Just before the normal lower-off head rightwards and pull over onto the belay ledge.

2 Teepee 6a

20m Follow the classic corner then mantel over onto the belay ledge.

3 The G.O.A.T. 6a+

The leftmost line could just be Scotland's longest sport route?

15m Go up for a few moves then traverse left to reach another belay ledge. (From this belay it's a 35m abseil to the ground)

20m Follow the cracks and bulges above.

Lawrence on the first ascent of The G.O.A.T.

4 Squirticus Maximus 6a+

20m The middle line goes up rock so sticky you won't need holds.

5 Hashi-Watashi 5

20m The rightmost line is the easiest of the trio.

Left-hand Sector

This new sector is slightly hidden down and left of the main crag.

1 Unreliable Virgin 6b

25m Climb the slab left of the turfy corner then up the steep orange headwall.

2 Blacklight Sleaze 6a

25m Left-hand line of bolts right of the turfy corner.

3 Unknown at Present Three? 5

25m Start as for 2 then take the rightmost line of bolts.

Obscure Gems No 4 Wakame

It’s been an embarrassingly long time since we did a blog. Sorry, we’ve been busy.

However back on the trail of the classic, but completely obscure boulder problems of Wester Ross here’s another one.

Even the name is shrouded in mist; it’s maybe called ‘Wakame’, or ‘The Stone Pig Problem’ or ‘The Sitter to Anchors Away Direct Start’. Of course the grade is a bit vague too, but 7Aish.

Drive to Reiff, park under the stone pig (NB 968 135), walk down to the coast and guddle about till you find the problem. The SMC Guide to Northern Highlands North will be useful.

The Stone Pig

The Stone Pig

Start sitting in the alcove with hands in the niche. Work out how to get your right hand in the diagonal slot on the right, then lay-one-on for the break. Further holds on the right are out of bounds. A direct version avoiding the slot on the right is a great project for someone with power to waste. Enjoy.

Bad Beta

Bad Beta